Tips, etc.
What size should I make? Pick the cardigan from your wardrobe that fits you the way you'd like this cardigan to fit you. Measure it. Use the size directions nearest (or larger if close) to your other garment.

Use the completed garment as your *TEMPLATE* throughout your Ribby knitting to check your sizing and see if you're still in the ball park...

An article on sweater sizing by moi...

First Sweater? Ultra learning HERE at the Ribby Knitalong...

Use 8 Large Snaps instead of a zipper for a no-buttonhole join...

Need Help with your Zipper? Go HERE for step-by-step instructions...

Color Chip

Want looser sleeves? Just work the center panel in rib as given when you cast on, then work the increased sleeve stitches in St st...

Get an extra ball of yarn if you plan to increase sleeve length or collar length...

Yarn Rule-of-Thumb: Skein Band reads 4.5-5sts per inch (18-20 sts per 4")...


Yarn - Wool, etc.
Araucania: Nature Wool

Ashford Tekapo:
New Zealand wool

Baabajoes: 10 ply

Brown Sheep: Nature Spun Worsted
Superwash Worsted

Cascade 220
Cascade 220 SuperWash

Debbie Bliss:
Cashmerino Aran
Merino Aran

Elann: Peruvian Collection Pure Alpaca
Peruvian Highland Wool

Filatura di Crosa: 127

Filtes King: Extra

Jaeger: Matchmaker Merino Aran

Patons: Decor

Plymouth: Encore

Unger: Utopia

Yarn - Cotton, etc.

Debbie Bliss:
Cotton Denim Aran

Elann: Four Seasons Roma


Lion Brand Yarns:
Cotton Ease

Plymouth: Fantasy Naturale

Wednesday, November 17, 2004


NOW that the Tweedy Bird Cardi AND the Twoncho are finished, I can branch out over some new Horizons. Over the weekend, I fired up the DYEpot once again and put forth more skeins from my rescued eBay yarn.

I was going for the shade found in my favorite T-shirt and a shade of blackberry from my favorite commercial sweater. The burgundy is spot-on; the blackberry is a little light, but overall, it's a done tonal match...

It's amazing to me, with my photographic background how different color is when you mix pigments. My experience is in mixing light. I can walk into almost any space and tell you its color temperature.

I can't tell you shade percentages.

Additive versus subtractive color spaces are two different beasts. I'm an Additive Amazon but a Sophmoric Subtractive.

Even after two workshops, I'm still crawling around sucking my thumb on this one - slowly, I've been able to garner some webbage info, but this has to be a hands on thing. You can only go so far without gettin' DIRTY...

Comments (6)

Tuesday, December 14, 2004

a Tale of Two Sleeves

Most people I know who LOVE to knit sweaters HATE to knit sleeves! For me, it signals the stage in the project when the Honeymoon is over and when Marital Counseling might become necessary...

This time around on 2 of my WIPs, I'm trying something different. On 2 different sweaters, I have two seperate sleeves on the needles. One is the Shazam Cardi and the Other is a Ribby. When I get tired of one, I switch to the other and WOOT! It's (sortof) cured my 7-year Itch, to borrow a phrase...

I thought for those of you who are knitting the Ribby as your first sweater, you might enjoy seeing a little comparison.

WHAT's UP with those Ribby Sleeves?

YUP! They're really skinny! That's because the ribbed pattern wants to scrunch itself all up when it's in a relaxed, unworn, position. You can't see any of the hills and valleys of the rib - which is weird! It almost looks like bumpy Stockinette st.

It also looks alot smaller than the non-ribbed sleeve.

But now the FUN happens - you just love FUN don't you!?

If you slighty stretch the Ribby sleeve, you see that it is the same size as a normal, non-ribbed sleeve. WHEW!

Now I understand why some people on the #66 think I'm knitting a scarf when I'm wailing away on my commute!

Comments (7)

Thursday, December 30, 2004

can't get enough

Since my other knitting seems like WORK to me this Holiday Week, I'm relaxing with a Ribby. It is a low stress, high output kind of project and I can't wait to finish it so I can wear it. I am on a Burgundy Bender and it joins the 4 other Ribbys I already have in my Favorite Sweater Repetoire. I have the original Purple one, a Black one and a multicolored yoke one.

Instant Ribby Karma

1. How to pick the right size to make: measure your chest at the fullest point. Make the next size up in the Finished Measurements listed. For instance, if your bust measures 37" use the instructions for the finished measurement of 38/39 inches. You need what is called "ease" in the garment so that it isn't too tight. Read about ease and how to size your knitware HERE.

2. Hate that Zipper? Use 8 large snaps (from a fabric store like Joann's) sewn to the front edges to close. I have one I made like this and I love it!

3. Need Help with your Zipper? Go HERE for step-by-step instructions...

4. Join the fun at Gallery Ribby! Send me a picture of you in your finished ribby and I'll post it to the Gallery. Here's the work-in-progress page for an idea of what it'll look like (details section still in progress until after the houseguests leave...)

And, as this New Year approaches, I TOAST all the Ribby Knitters out there far and wide and wish you Good Speed and Fine Health!


Comments (10)

Friday, February 11, 2005

Even though I'm a dirty rotten cheater and have been playing with my FixIT project, I've been knitting my Cordovan Ribby on the #66. I've finished the Back, the Sleeves, and most of the Right Front.


Because I'm in a Finish-As-You-Go kind of mood lately, I've taken ye olde Steam Iron and blocked out the pieces.

STEAM IRON? Yes! I first read about doing this in the back of one of my Rowan Mags - right before the lists of worldwide yarn shops there is a paragraph in the middle of the page that says to *press* your knitting.

At first, I thought this was crazy - that it would flatten the stitches beyond belief and make everything as flat as a pancake with no remaining texture.

DUEfuss... That's acrylic yarn that does that - not wool.

Rowan says to press (using the correct temps for your fiber, but of course) using a damp pressing cloth, which would create steam. I have done that, AND I've done what you see above. Here I am using my left hand to *open* up the tightness of the 2x2 ribbed sleeve and *floating* the steam over the surface. The actual iron DOES NOT touch the piece - just the steam which makes the stitches relax and behave.


Here you see an un-pressed sleeve sitting atop the pressed sleeve from above. I've used the magic of Photoshop to lighten the color of the top sleeve because the yarn color is too dark to see as is and I outlined it with a little Ogerific Green~!

Really a difference! AND, the ribbing because it is, well, ribbing, just wants to keep its hills and valleys so, in wool, remains slightly textured, but looser fitting...

... to be continued - read the Ribby Notes here.

Comments (12)

Wednesday, February 16, 2005

Like many of you, I am on the last piece of my Ribby Cardi - a Front. This piece, if you are a first time sweater knitter, might be the first time you see the esoteric and well-loved phrase *AND AT THE SAME TIME*. Want to unravel that piece of knitting code? Follow me...

YUP, it's easier than rubbing your head and patting your tummy AT THE SAME TIME, in fact it's easier, IMHO, than casting on or even making a button band.

When you see that phrase it is a FLAG, an indicator, that you are going to be doing two different knitting processes on the one piece you're knitting. In the case of the Ribby Front, you are going to be shaping the armhole, then you are going to start shaping the neckline. It's a "joined-in-progress" type of thing. First you start the Armhole Shaping and are going merrily along; and after a certain dimension or count is reached, you start the other process AND DO BOTH at the same time. Most of the time, these instructions are given as a count, so you can easily keep track of your Decreases with pen and paper or one of the various counting devices out there.

I like to use safety pins and often put one right through the completed DEC bump and then I can easily find them to count (good for lining up later to sew as well.) These are very cheap and can be found just about anywhere.

Elizabeth writes: "I am trying to do my neck decreases on my left front. Everything works fine until I get to the last five stitches. On the KAL site, you suggested doing a K3TOG at this point. So would I K1, k3tog, then k1. And on the next row, just knit the last 3 sts together? Also, does it make a difference if I do a ssk, or k3tog? For the left, as well as the right?

here you see the last 5 sts on my Right Ribby Front

I have to decrease once for the neckline and once for the armhole. So I K1, K2TOG, then K2TOG again. If this was the Left Front, I would SSK, SSK, K1. Now I am down to 3 stitches.

To do the last decreases, I slip the first stitch purlwise, K2TOG, then pass the slipped stitch over the stitch formed by the K2TOG (this can be abbreviated PSSO), then break the yarn and pull it through the last stitch. DONE! For the Left Front, that would be Sl 1, SSK, PSSO. Double DONE!

AND, we've accomplished something else that you commonly see referred to in most sweater patterns, the phrase: *Reverse All Shapings*.

I wrote Elizabeth thus:
"Reverse all shaping is easy - it really means, wherever you worked a K2tog, instead work a SSK. Wherever you bound off stitches on the RS, now bind-off on the WS.

VISUALIZE this: Use the Back piece as your template (this is why you make the Back first). Put it on a flat surface and look at the armhole edges. You will be making equivalent edges on your front pieces. It is easy to see what your shaping should look like this way. Remember for the first bind-off (which would correspond to your Left Front), it was on the RS of the piece, then you finished the row. THEN, the next bind-off was on a WS row (which would correspond to the Right Front), and you finished that row.

Then the very next row, a RS row, was where you started your DECs. ALL DECs take place on RS rows. All DECs on the Left edge of the Back are K2tog. All DECs on the Right edge of the Back were SSK.

You do the same for your Left and Right pieces. That is *reverse all shapings*...

And, on the Ribby, it makes an elegant and graceful angled line on the edge of your garment."

I hope this helps a little - I'm sure I've left something out but until next time... the Ribby Notes here

Comments (1)

Tuesday, April 5, 2005

ChicKnits New Threads Tuesday

Ribby's got the FUNK!
Me & Bootsy singing "Hollywood Squares"

Ribby Cardi
Design: ChicKnits
Yarn: I Kettle Dyed Barn Yarn
Color: Cordovan & Blackberry
Gauge: 19sts/24 rows over 4"
Needles: #6 & #7
Type: Hand Knit

I have no idea when and where I got the CD but it's called "Back in the DAY: the Best of Bootsy"

Hey, who's Bootsy? The premier FunkoPhonic Bassist in the 70's for James Brown, Parliment & the Funkadelics and then his own RUBBER BAND...

NOTES: becasue I wanted this as a *Work Jacket* instead of a regular cardi, I lengthened the body by 2 inches (taking approximately 75 extra yds of yarn) and I lengthened the sleeves by 1 inch (which takes about 20 extra yds). Translated to patterneese, that would mean an extra ball of 110yds/skein yarn! As a rule of thumb, it's always a good idea to *get more* as in that extra ball as added insurance for the project...

I also *tipped* the collar with a little COLOR! I used about 6 yds of CHARTRUESE (but of course!) to edge the collar for a tonal LIFT!


You can see the kettle goodness of the dyejob here, too... the color is striated throughout - it isn't nice and even but is nicer and uneven! the Ribby Notes HERE

Comments (20)

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